May-2002
To see pictures of our 2007 trip please click below
A stormy May Sunday afternoon saw the Club converge on Plymouth from different parts of the country.
The early ferry crossing from Plymouth to Santander was an expedition in itself. A 24 hour crossing, through an inevitably choppy Bay of Biscay, was most survivable with the aid of one of the many ship’s bars and an alcohol induced sleep. Although the crossing was uncomfortable for some, the Club and its motorcycles made it to Santander in one piece and embarked on a truly remarkable Tour.
The first Duke of Wellington’s campaign in Spain and Portugal was characterised by a series of strategic British advances and withdrawals, forcing the French to manoeuvre far beyond the capability of their logistic chain, and fighting them on ground of British choosing, thereby ensuring that Wellington was never to taste defeat in the Peninsula.
After meeting at McDonalds (deemed the most suitable meeting place) in Santander the Club split into its 3 groups (2 fast and 1 slow) The first destination was high in the Montes de Oca near the ancient city of Leon, a campsite nearby provided a dry, if windy first night’s stop, including the by now legendary Club Barbecue.
The following day took us to familiar territory, moving to the Portuguese coast to the resort of Peniche, and a very suitably located campsite, and after a small amount of camp site admin, the Club was in town being introduced to Steak Portuguese it was also the first opportunity for the Club Secretary to introduce some of the newer members to the pleasures of the Harley Davidson Motorcycle.
The Club was in the region to visit the Battlefields of Rolica and Vimiero, the sites of Wellington’s first victories over the French. From a visitor’s point-of-view, both Rolica and Vimiero offer a superb insight into Wellington’s early tactics against the French, especially as both battles are interlinked and in close proximity with each other. Vimiero especially, offers an excellent example of the type of ground Wellington favoured in defence. It offered plenty of dead ground for the infantry to take cover from French artillery whilst in line abreast; then, they could rise and meet the redoubtable French column with the withering fire from hundreds of rifles at a time. After a morning of becoming increasingly aware of Wellington’s prowess as a commander, the Club dispersed for lunch in their groups and then onto Figuera da Foz to the next campsite from which we would embark to visit the battlefield of Busaco.
Busaco sits atop a ridgeline atop which Wellington positioned himself in his now familiar defensive pattern. The French advanced in 2 columns, General Ney in the North and General Reynier to the South. The southern column reached the ridgeline first in the early morning but the French Column was repulsed by the British Line before the morning mist could rise. Ney to the North heard the firing, and assumed a great French victory was in the making. Like Reynier he advanced in column and was beaten off with heavy casualties by a mixture of the Light Division under General Craufurd and two Portuguese Brigades. This was the first time the French had come face to face with the Portuguese element of Wellington’s army, and served to demonstrate that with the correct tactics, any disciplined force could defeat the French.
The two best spots to see the battle site are Craufurd’s Windmill and the Wellington Memorial (a museum is also on site); a brief demonstration at the windmill proved the effectiveness of concealed infantry against an advancing column. With 3 men lying flat, the remainder could advance to within 15 yards before they could be seen and engaged at point blank range with the added element of surprise. After a hot morning’s education we ventured on towards the Spanish border, and the last nights stay in Portugal in Garda.
The road into Spain, the same used by Wellington all those years ago, is a motorcyclist’s dream; long good roads with wide sweeping bends. This was ideal for the likes of the fast group who enjoyed themselves to the limit of the law. Astride the border lies the town of Fuentes de Onoro where an action by the cavalry under General Cotton arguably saved the day – along with Wellington’s shrewdness and quick thinking. This was the first battle of the campaign that any regiment of what is now the Household Cavalry took part. The Royals along with the 14th and 16th Light Dragoons, 1st Hussars and the KGL. Swiftly moving on (the site of Fuentes de Onoro has been built on considerably since the battle); the Club entered Spain and visited the fortress town of Cuidad Rodrigo.
Cuidad Rodrigo is a must for any tourist of the area. Still surrounded by its ancient walls the sites of the breaches made by the British are clearly marked, as are the walls of the impressive Church, still pockmarked with the fall of British shot. The town’s surrender was actually forced by one man; Lieutenant Gurwood of the Light Division, after coming too from unconsciousness, wandered lost through the town and finding the Citadel, entered and caught the French commander entertaining his staff at dinner. Sadly the British lost one of its ablest commanders, General Craufurd, commander of the Light Division, whose body was encased in the walls by one of the breaches, a plaque marks this spot today. After a good Spanish lunch (rather dodgy meat in a cigarette infested restaurant) the Club moved on to Salamanca for a two day stop and a visit to perhaps the best preserved battlefield in Spain.
Wellington again chose his position well, hiding the majority of his force in the dead ground. But in a striking example of his ability to seize the initiative, he turned what was to be another defensive battle into an outstanding attack and victory. Again the British cavalry were to cause the most damage to the French, with General Le Marchant (Sandhurst Commandant away on a bluff – the current Commandant’s house being named after him) leading the British Dragoon Brigade which in 40 minutes dispersed 3 French divisions. In the final moments of the last charge, Le Marchant was killed, another grievous loss to Wellington and the British.
Salamanca remains largely unchanged since 1812, with the Greater and Lesser Arapiles providing excellent viewpoints, as well as Wellington’s command location. After another spectacular day, the Club was able to take a day off for admin and visiting the local area.
Vitoria, like Salamanca, is a spectacular battlefield to visit, although there has been considerable industrialisation and construction since the battle. The campsite at Vitoria was in the process of being overwhelmed by a new dual carriageway, but was still able to provide excellent accommodation and facilities right in the middle of the battlefield. By the time of Vitoria, Wellington was on the offensive, the French having only a foothold in Spain. On arriving West of Vitoria, Wellington split his force into four columns which totally outmanoeuvred the French to the extent that their army was routed with Joseph (Napoleon’s brother) narrowly avoiding capture, his silver bed pot still adorns the table of the KRH Officers’ Mess. The most enjoyable part of visiting the Vitoria site is the number of viewpoints that can be utilised. Ancient Roman remains and medieval bridges combine to make this still one of the more remarkable battlefields that the Club has visited.
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